🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, situated prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble shop securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary honour.